Each Cook Must Study Here’: Unassuming Turkish Restaurant Ranks 4th on Ranking of London’s Best Restaurants.

Whenever assembling a ranking of London’s finest dining spots, one might expect familiar award-winning establishments. But, nestled prominently among these gastronomic heavyweights is a modest salonu located in a outlying area of northern London.

An Shocking Recognition

The little Turkish spot, focusing in the specialties of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been crowned the fourth best restaurant in the metropolis by a influential gastronomic guide. This accolade has left the owners totally astonished.

“I’m utterly shocked,” says a family member, pointing to his family’s hard graft that culminated in their humble shop securing such a prominent ranking on a notable 99-strong list.

A Charm of Simplicity

The compact space, which used to be a simple cafe before its conversion into a sought-after spot, has retained much of its former character. It fits just over 20 people and, except for the vibrant live cooking performance, the interior remains essentially unchanged. “It is a compact and cozy space,” notes the owner.

The Namesake Offering: Tantuni

Ultimately, it is all down to the cuisine, and this restaurant more than delivers. The eatery’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated pleasure. Choice of meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to keep a moist, juicy quality.

The meat is then thrown into a sizeable pan with seasonings and oil, which are mixed in slowly. When the flavourful mixture heats through, handmade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is placed on top to soak in all the aromas. Finely sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley go inside before the flavourful meat is folded securely inside.

The wrap is usually consumed with a drizzle of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The end result is a strong slap of flavour, with subtle hints of sumac, bold onions and rich, paprika-red oil bringing it all together.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is cut up and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. The prominent food critic labelled this dish “a part of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

When it comes to a sweet finish, the restaurant’s künefe goes down a treat. It is doused in a more modest amount of syrup than found elsewhere, giving it a richer, toastier and not overly sweet profile.

Rising Above the Titans

Notably, this modest restaurant has ranked above several illustrious three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself just behind the peak of the list, just after other notable dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave this place full for below £25, similar tasting menus at top-tier establishments can run into significantly more than that figure.

The Philosophy of Heart

The restaurant is also one of several Turkish restaurants included and is located well outside the city’s central zones. “It’s not focused on luxury. London is an pricey city. There is an assumption that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the finest service and finest food but I do not agree with that,” explains the owner.

“I believe what is most important is hospitality, kindness and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

The sentiment is shared by the list’s curator, who remarked that if he was in a role of authority, he would “make it mandatory to have every chef in London come to this restaurant as a masterclass, to teach them the traps of overcomplication, and to reveal what is possible if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their absolute best”.

The Story of Perseverance

In contrast to most chefs managing kitchens in the list’s top ten, the driving force behind the food didn’t train at elite establishments. “I am truly happy of our shop and our mum,” says her son.

Numerous restaurants take years to become successful, but this eatery first launched seven years ago. Its acclaim is due to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of effort.

“My mum was very tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Everything is made by hand; she would handle all of this. She is a solo parent and she had a social life but her friends would come here to encourage her. She had children and a house to manage as well. Each of these responsibilities forged her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he shares.

An Recognition for the Culture

The restaurant’s recognition is likely to echo outside its own doors. “In my opinion a lot of people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” says the owner, pointing out the wider importance of this gastronomic honour.